Car Loan Calculator
Calculators · Added 15 August 2026
Work out a car or auto loan payment including the things that actually determine it: sales tax, your trade-in, anything still owed on that trade-in, and dealer fees. The amount financed is rarely the sticker price, and this shows how it is built up line by line.
How to use the car loan calculator
- 1Enter the negotiated vehicle price, before tax and fees.
- 2Add your cash down payment and any dealer or registration fees.
- 3Enter your trade-in value and anything still owed on it.
- 4Set the sales tax rate, and tick the box if your state taxes the price after the trade-in is deducted.
- 5Enter the APR and term, then read the payment and the full breakdown.
Examples
A typical purchase
- Input
- $35,000 car · $5,000 down · $8,000 trade-in · 7% tax · $500 fees · 60 months at 7.5%
- Result
- $24,390 financed · $488.71 a month
The trade-in tax credit saved $560 in this example.
Without the trade-in tax credit
- Input
- The same purchase in a state that taxes the full price
- Result
- $24,950 financed — $560 more
Most US states allow the credit; a few do not, and on an expensive car the difference is significant.
Negative equity rolled in
- Input
- $30,000 car · $5,000 trade-in worth · $9,000 still owed
- Result
- $34,000 financed — $4,000 more than the car costs
You start the new loan owing more than the vehicle is worth.
About the car loan calculator
The amount financed is the number that matters
Car buyers negotiate the price and then finance something quite different. Sales tax is added, dealer and registration fees are added, the down payment and trade-in come off, and any negative equity from the old car goes back on. The result can be several thousand either side of the price you agreed.
This is why the monthly payment is a poor thing to negotiate on. A payment can be brought down by extending the term, by rolling costs forward, or by adjusting the trade-in allowance against the price — all of which can leave you paying more in total while the monthly figure improves. The amount financed, the APR and the term together determine the real cost, and any two of them can be traded against the third.
The practical defence is to agree the vehicle price first, in isolation, then discuss the trade-in, then discuss financing. Bundling all three lets movement in one hide movement in another, which is precisely why the conversation is often structured that way.
Depreciation, and why it drives everything else
A new car loses value fastest in its first years — commonly a fifth or more in the first twelve months. A loan, meanwhile, pays down slowly at first because early payments are mostly interest. Those two curves diverging is what puts a borrower underwater, and the longer the term, the wider and longer-lasting the gap.
That is the real argument against very long car loans, more than the extra interest. A 60-month loan on a car with a reasonable down payment typically stays roughly level with the vehicle's value. An 84-month loan with nothing down can leave you owing more than the car is worth for most of the loan's life, so any accident, sale or change of circumstances during that period costs money out of pocket.
It is also why gap insurance exists and is genuinely useful in this situation: if the car is written off while you are underwater, a standard insurance payout covers the vehicle's value, not the loan balance, and gap cover pays the difference. Needing it is a symptom of the loan structure rather than a solution to it, but if the structure is already in place the cover is not unreasonable.
Frequently asked questions
Is a car loan calculator the same as an auto loan calculator?
How does a trade-in affect sales tax?
What is negative equity and why does it matter?
Is a longer loan term a good idea?
Does the APR include dealer add-ons?
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