Debt Payoff Calculator
Calculators · Added 15 August 2026
Enter all your debts and how much extra you can pay each month, and see when you would be debt free under each of the two common strategies. Avalanche targets the highest interest rate first and always costs less; snowball clears the smallest balance first and is easier to stick to. The calculator shows both figures rather than telling you which to pick.
How to use the debt payoff calculator
- 1Add each debt with its balance, interest rate and minimum monthly payment.
- 2Enter how much extra you can put in each month on top of all the minimums.
- 3Choose avalanche or snowball to see that strategy's plan.
- 4Compare the total interest against the other strategy and against paying minimums only.
- 5Read the payoff order to see which debt to focus on first.
Examples
Two debts, £200 extra
- Input
- £5,000 card at 22% (£125 min) · £8,000 loan at 7% (£200 min)
- Result
- Debt free in about 2 years 3 months with avalanche
The total monthly payment is £525 — the two minimums plus the extra.
Avalanche versus snowball
- Input
- The same debts, snowball order
- Result
- Same timeframe, but more interest paid overall
Avalanche is always cheaper. Whether the gap is worth the loss of motivation is a personal call.
The cost of doing nothing
- Input
- The same debts with no extra payment
- Result
- Substantially longer and considerably more interest
The comparison against minimums-only is usually the most striking figure on the page.
About the debt payoff calculator
Why rolling the payment forward matters so much
The mechanism both strategies share is more important than the difference between them. You fix a total monthly amount — all the minimums plus whatever extra you can find — and you keep paying that same total even as individual debts disappear. The payment freed up by clearing one debt does not return to your spending; it is added to the attack on the next.
That is what produces the accelerating effect the word 'snowball' describes. Early on, most of your payment is spread thinly across minimums. As debts fall away, an increasing share concentrates on a shrinking number of balances, and the last debt is being hit with the entire budget. The final debts clear far faster than the first, whatever order you took them in.
It also explains why the comparison against minimums-only is usually so stark. Paying minimums forever means the freed-up payments are never redirected — each cleared debt just reduces your outgoings. The strategies work by refusing to take that reduction until everything is gone.
The case for each order
Avalanche's case is arithmetic and not really arguable: interest accrues fastest on the highest rate, so removing that balance first removes the most future interest. Any other order costs more. Where the difference is large — a 24% card against a 4% loan, over several years — it can run to thousands.
Snowball's case is behavioural, and the evidence for it is better than a purely rational analysis suggests. Research on consumer debt repayment has found that people who clear small balances first are more likely to stay with the plan, and completion rates matter more than optimality for anyone who might otherwise stop. Watching a debt disappear entirely is a different psychological event from watching a large balance decline slightly faster.
The useful question is not which is better in principle but how much the difference costs in your specific case. Often the two strategies produce very similar totals, because the highest-rate debt happens also to be small, and then the choice is free. When they diverge sharply, the number is worth looking at directly — which is why it appears on the results rather than being summarised as a recommendation.
What the simulation assumes
Interest is applied monthly at one twelfth of the annual rate, before payments are made. Real credit cards typically compute interest daily on the average balance, which produces a slightly different and usually marginally higher figure. Minimum payments are held constant, where most cards recalculate them as a percentage of the balance each month — holding them fixed makes the projection slightly optimistic against a card whose minimum falls.
Nothing is modelled for fees, annual charges, promotional rate expiry, penalty rates after a missed payment, or new spending. Each of those pushes the real payoff date out, and the last is the one that most often derails a plan in practice: paying down a card while continuing to use it can leave the balance flat for years.
The result is best read as the shape of the plan rather than a precise date — which debt to attack, roughly how long it takes, and how much difference the extra payment makes. Those conclusions are robust to the modelling assumptions. The exact month is not.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between the avalanche and snowball methods?
Which one should I use?
Why does my payoff take longer than the calculator says?
What if the calculator says my debts never clear?
Should I pay off debt or save first?
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